More photos

It's like Hálfdán says, I didn't really needed to replace the entire frontend, that was just a personal desicion. If I had kept the '65 frontend how-ever, a few issues would have needed to be corrected, one of them being the fender/shock tower overlapping. That alone would be a major job. Another major issue was the spacing between the rear inner fenders, they were about 1" too far apart, and I know that would cause a problem when the hood and hood hinges were to be installed, because I have the exact same issue with my '65 HT. Someone have replaced the inner fenders at some point and just got it wrong. I have worn out those stock hood hinges a lot, and when I installed the billet hood hinges from Eddie Motorsport it just didn't fit the hood. I ended up using a 1/2" spacer between each hood hinge and fender.

So these two issues was the reason why I decided to replace the frontend rather than trying to fix it.

With that said, just understand that I have absolutely no hard feelings towards anyone about these issues, I like this kind of work because it helps me learn more about working with the metal. I also knew I wanted to do something with those bulky shock towers anyway.

Still Rollin'.

Had to get into the thinking box about what I should do with the frontend. Unfortunately there were a few issues with it, one of them being the inner fenders were overlapping the shock towers on the outside, and not the inside like original.

I have always thought the 65-66 shock towers look bulky, and I really wanted to have more engine compartment space like the 67-70 Mustangs, so I made a desiscion to replace the shock towers with the ones from 1970. This way I also solved the issue with the fender/shock tower overlapping.

Then came another issue; the frame rails were to narrow for the new shock towers. After a long time of thinking and measuring, I ended up with replacing both frame rails for the Dynacorn version. They are made for '69-70 models, but will fit 65-68 too. Inner fenders were also replaced for the new 1-piece from Dynacorn, and made to fit around the new shock towers.

Rust keeps appearing here and there, and I don't like having lots of rust in between panels, so the panels will have to come off and be repaired, and welded back to the car. I also removed the cowl to have it stripped for rust and paint inside out. I removed the dashpanel at the same time to better gain access to the firewall and cowl side area.

I had the cowl in a mixture of water and a rust removing agent which are expensive, but popular here in Norway, it was soaking in there for two weeks almost, but it didn't do much for the rust, and I have had much better luck with molasses and water (the cheap, smelly way), so the panels will be soaked into that for another week.

With the cowl and dash away, I was able to remove the driver side cowl side panel and replace it with a new one. I also had to remove the rear lower window panel due to rust, repaired a new section to the panel and welded it back to the car.
 

Finally got around to do some work on the FB again, after a long time installing a complete TCP suspension setup on a friends '70 Mustang.

I removed the rest of the main floor, boxed the frame rails where the transition pan will sit, did some rust repair on the LH rear window corner support, removed the LH wheelhouse and quarter panel. The inner wheelhouse will be widened by about 1-3/4" to accommodate wider wheels.

I initially wanted to keep the original quarter panels, although they have quite a lot of small dents in them, but after test-fitting the new quarter panel skin from AP, I found it to be a near perfect fit, so I have decided to replace them.

Didn't get to do as much work on the FB this summer as planned, but a little is better than nothing

The shock crossmember has been boxed for strength. Next is boxing the rear framerails.

Great craftsmanship,I agree with Moli it didn't look like it needed that much work,thanks for keeping us posted.

You're both right, it actually don't need all that sheetmetal replaced, but there are bits and pieces here and there that needs to be repaired, and instead of patching up the car and at the same time trying to clean up years of dirt and rust inside every nook and cranny, I'd rather replace the entire part. It's also good to have a solid strong base to weld on. I order all the new parts directly from USA myself, so cost is kept low.

I'll continue the restoration next year, in the meantime;

I wish you all a Merry Christmas and A Happy New Year )))

Picked up those new rockers a while ago, but they were not much better, still too wide and the upper profile didn't match at all. The rockers were not an American Design, but another Taiwan product. However, the stamping was much better than the Dynacorns, corners were sharp and crisp, too bad they don't fit.

So the solution was to use the original upper profile (what was left of it) and blend it into the lower and inner Dynacorn rocker panel. It was a huge job, but it fits much better now I think. Still not completely done with the welding, but I'm not in a hurry

Also had to level up the car again, this time with a digital level gauge. Now it is 100% level

Greetings from Norway.

State of the car 1 year ago. It has now been completely stripped of parts, undercoating has been removed and most of the paint. I will sometime this year or next year have the entire car dipped in acid at www.bs-teknikk.no to remove every bit of rust and paint, before replacing most of the sheetmetal in the rear section. More info to come when I start working on it